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Thursday, November 6, 2014

Camino de Santiago: this girl's packing list


As I mentioned here, I spent two weeks hiking the Camino de Santiago from Leon to Santiago this fall.  In the (very brief!) time that I spent planning my trip, I was thankful to the packing lists and tips that I found online I figured that I'd share my packing list and reflections.  


How light will you go?


Since you don't need to camp on the Camino (at least not on the section and at the timing that I completed it) and no need to carry a significant amount of food or water, it's possible to carry an extremely light pack...or to treat yourself to a few luxuries.  
I decided that I'd prefer to carry a few extra pounds rather than go totally spartan.  And you know what?  I was happy that I did.  Everything I read online says that you'll curse yourself and toss out half of your belongings, but I was extremely happy with my burden.  Even with luxuries in tow it weighed only 15 lbs which is comfortably less than 10% of my body weight (a much cited and sensible guideline for an upper limit).  This may not be the right choice for everyone, but it worked for me.


Also keep in mind that this isn't a wilderness trip.  While that means you’ll save weight on camping and cooking gear, you’ll want to bring a few extras like toiletries and a set of clean clothes.   That said, nearly every albergue provides sinks for hand washing and clotheslines for hang drying, so you can wash out your essentials regularly.


A few notes on the “right” gear


Footwear.  While your shoes are critical, there is no consensus on the perfect footwear.  No matter what anyone swears by, what works for them is just that: it works for them.  You'll find people who love their footwear and had no foot issues wearing everything from heavy leather backpacking boots to minimalist running shoes...and in each category you'll find many people who hated their shoes!  The best you can do is choose something that works for you on your regular hiking routine.


Pack.  It's important to find a pack that fits you well.  Don't be shy about spending a few hours at your local outdoor store trying on all the packs that will hold the correct volume, loading them with weight, and walking around. (Pro tip - if your outdoor store doesn't have weight bags for testing packs, ask them if you can use a climbing rope.)  Ignore the pack’s look and price to start with and just find what fits.  I am unrelenting about finding a pack that sits snugly on my hips and hardly touches my back and shoulders.  I think this makes me a weirdo?  Whatever.  After years of backpacking I know that this works for me.  If you already own a bag that will work, all the better.


Clothing/Textiles. Obviously you want to choose quick drying versions that will dry overnight. If you want to test your gear for drying speed in advance, make sure to wring it out by hand instead of putting it through the spin cycle, since this is the method you'll be using on the Camino. Hand-wringing leaves your clothes with a LOT more water in them than a centrifuge spin cycle!


Basic Caminio Packing List (aka - What I actually packed).  
Total pack weight 15 lbs, total skin out weight 18.4 lbs.  I traveled in late September and early October on the Camino Francis.


Clothing
  • 1x tshirt
  • 1x long sleeved merino wool base layer
  • 1x shorts. I found shorts with pockets to be ideal for keeping my wallet handy.
  • 1x pants.  I chose to go with a pair of soft shell pants that would work in the rain and also as a comfortable pair of pants for cold weather.  I re-treated them with a technical waterproofing spray before leaving for good measure.  They weren't the lightest pants in the world, but I already owned them and didn't want to buy something new.
  • 1x sundress.  I chose to wear a sundress as my “clean” outfit for the evenings.  It was lighter weight than bringing a top and bottom combo, easy to change into after a shower, and looked really cute.  I got a TON of comments to the effect of “why didn't I think of that?” and “aren't you fancy!”  I highly recommend this option.
  • 1x fleece pullover
  • 1x base layer leggings
  • 1x rain jacket
  • 2 pairs wool socks.  Guess what?  Wool socks don’t dry overnight.  They don’t even dry within 24 hours.  These were a pain in the ass. They were also too hot for these Canadian feet in the Spanish afternoon sun.  Therefore, I bought...
  • 2 pairs synthetic socks.  Much more useful than ^
  • 4x synthetic underwear
  • 2 bras
  • 1x sleepwear.  You are sleeping each night in a room with 4-50 other people of mixed gender.  Some people sleep in their underwear, but most wear either their clean clothes or sleepwear.  
  • 1x Buff.  This was a great multi-functional item.  I used it as head-ware when it was cold, an eye mask while I slept, and a hair wrap if it was cold after a shower.
  • Hat.  I used a running style baseball cap that I already owned, although most people prefer a wide brimmed hat to keep the sun off their neck.


Footwear
  • Hiking boots.  As I mentioned, there is no perfect footwear.  I wore my light hikers which were well broken in, but if I did it again I might try trail runners.  The hikers don’t have a lot of cushion which sucks on the frequent paved roads and I had problems with my feet overheating in the afternoons. That said, they were excellent on the muddy, rocky, and steep sections so maybe the grass is always greener?
  • Flip flops.  These were my evening shoes and also functioned as shower sandals and slippers to wear around the albergue.  Often you are not permitted to wear your hiking boots inside the albergue.  (Fair enough since, in some areas, you hike around a LOT of cow shit.)


Toiletries
You can refill pretty much whatever you need along the way, so just bring a travel sized and pick up a new one if you run out.
  • Toothbrush and paste
  • Miniature hair brush
  • 3 hair elastics
  • Castile soap used for body wash, shampoo, and hand washing laundry.  Note, this worked terribly on my hair.  I’d just bring a travel sized shampoo next time.
  • Conditioner.  If you colour your hair at home, save one of the conditioner squeeze tubes that comes with your hair colour.  It’s super concentrated so will go a long way.
  • Face wash
  • sun screen
  • lip balm
  • deodorant
  • large sarong used as wrap for going to/from shower, towel, etc.  This is sort of a luxury item, but it was SOOOO useful that it would have been one of the last things I gave up.  I was able to avoid having to dress in a tiny, wet shower stall (often with no place to keep your clothes dry!) and simply wrapped myself in this sarong then go back to the room to (semi) discreetly dress under the wrap. I wish I could tell you what my wrap was made of because it dried in a flash, but it is actually an old scarf that I bought at H&M and I removed the tag from it years ago.  It was cheap and is very soft, so I’m guessing it’s rayon?
  • Small terry wash cloth - used for drying body after shower
  • Half oz micro towel - used for same purpose as washcloth but I was indecisive when planning for trip and brought both!
  • Mini first aid kit.  Bring a little of what you use at home for each of the following.  For me it was...
    • Pills - ibuprofen, tums, pepto
    • Blister care - moleskin, bandaids, mini scissors
    • Disinfectant - polysporin, hand sanitizer
  • Nail clippers


Accessories
  • Backpack.  I chose a 40 L full featured model (aka, not lightweight) that fit me well enough to make the load feel like nothing.
  • Summer sleeping bag.
  • Fitted sheet treated with permethrin.  I was paranoid about bedbugs and this item allowed me to sleep soundly.  I would cover the entire mattress and pillow with the fitted sheet and never touch the mattress, pillow, or provided blanket.  I was never affected by bed bugs. Who knows if it was luck or the chemically treated sheet!
  • Headphones. I didn't actually use them, but most people do.
  • Safety pins. Use them as clothes pins in windy conditions and when securing gear to your backpack if it didn’t dry overnight.
  • Mini notebook & pen
  • 1x mesh packing cube. I used this to keep my clothing organized. It can also double as a pillow if there isn't one provided by the albergue.
  • Camera & charger.  Although I typically use a micro SLR, I was happy I chose my pocket sized point and shoot for this trip.  Most people keep the electronics low profile, so this fits in a little better. Also, since it was small enough to keep in my pack’s hip pocket I didn’t have to stop to grab it and snap a photo.
  • Phone & charger.  Some people enjoy doing the camino without a phone, but most prefer to be able to check in with family in the evening.  Wifi is prevalent at albergues.
  • Guidebook.  Anyone who knows me knows I love a good guidebook. Most English speakers carry this book which is excellent and often called the “Brierley Bible.”  It's a pretty detailed guide, which is a useful luxury in my opinion. You can always tear out the unneeded pages if you want to go more light weight.
  • Water bottle.  One 750 ml biking style bottle worked well for me since there are frequent fountains that you can use to fill up along the way.  If you encounter a stretch where you’ll need more than one full bottle handy, just pick up a disposable plastic bottle from a store or bar.
  • Earplugs. Enough for a new pair every 2 nights.  Good noise blocking ear plugs are essential for your sleep. Make sure you learn to insert them correctly (roll tight, set them deep in your ears, then hold them for 30 seconds until they expand) so that you'll actually get solid noise blocking.
  • Mini knife.  Useful for picnicking.


Documents
  • Passport
  • Camino document
  • 2x credit card (the one you plan to use and a backup, kept separately in case of theft)
  • 2x debit card (the one you plan to use and a backup, kept separately in case of theft)
  • Mini wallet
  • Mini purse.  Weird?  I know, but my dress for the evenings did not have any pockets so I needed a practical way to carry my valuables.  The purse I bought was a tiny cloth thing that only weighed a few ounces and could hold my wallet, phone and camera.


Lightweight Camino Packing List (aka - How I'd amend my packing list if I wanted to lighten up)
If I were to amend my packing list to go lightweight, here is what it would look like.  Removed items are shown with a strikethrough and added items are in bold.  


Clothing
  • 1x tshirt
  • 1x long sleeved merino wool base layer
  • 1x shorts
  • 1x pants
  • 1x sundress
  • 1x fleece pullover
  • 1x base layer leggings
  • 1x rain jacket
  • 2 pairs wool socks
  • 2 pairs synthetic socks
  • 4x 3x synthetic underwear
  • 2 bras
  • 1x sleepwear
  • 1x buff
  • Hat
Footwear
  • Hiking boots  Trail runners
  • Flip flops


Toiletries
  • Toothbrush and paste
  • Miniature hair brush
  • 3 hair elastics
  • Castile soap used for body wash, shampoo, and hand washing laundry
  • Conditioner
  • Face wash
  • Sun screen
  • Lip balm
  • Deodorant
  • Large sarong used as wrap for going to/from shower, towel, etc
  • Small terry wash cloth
  • Half oz micro towel
  • Mini first aid kit
    • Pills - ibuprofen, tums, pepto tabs
    • Blister care - moleskin, bandaids, mini scissors
    • Disinfectant - polysporin, hand sanitizer
  • Nail clippers


Accessories
  • Backpack.  Drop the size to 30-35 L.  If I could find one that felt right I would go with a lightweight model, such as something from GoLite.  But if the fit wasn't right, I'd stick with a full featured model. In my opinion a little weight in the form of structure on your backpack tends to pay off by making your load feel lighter than it is, reducing fatigue in your shoulders.
  • Summer sleeping bag. Hostel sheet treated with permethrin.
  • Fitted sheet treated with permethrin
  • Headphones
  • Safety pins
  • mini notebook & pen
  • 1x large mesh packing cube
  • Camera & charger
  • Phone & charger  
  • Guidebook, tear our unneeded sections.  
  • Water bottle 
  • Earplugs. Enough for a new pair every 2 5 nights.  
  • Mini knife


Documents

  • Passport
  • Camino document
  • 2x credit card (the one you plan to use and a backup, kept separately in case of theft)
  • 2x debit card (the one you plan to use and a backup, kept separately in case of theft)
  • Mini wallet
  • Lightweight purse

7 comments:

  1. This is a very sensible list. I used it when planning my trip this summer. However, don't forget toilet paper! My intestines were hit by a bug. For five consecutive days I couldn't wait for the next village. I had to duck behind the bushes several times to relieve myself. (And, yes, I put the used paper in my waste bag, so no paper left. Not everybody did that, I saw.)

    Therefore, I experienced a lot of embarrassing moments that really had been even worse without the ordinary paper! Going in the bushes is quite uncomfortable for an aging woman, but the paper allowed me to preserve some sense of decency!

    ReplyDelete
  2. For sure, toilet paper is a "must", even on day trips in the wilderness. Several times I have been surprised by a sudden urge, for example when out in the woods picking berries. My experience is that it almost always is possible to find a secluded spot where to get things done. Then it is good to know that the duty can be finished the normal way, without any improvisation. As written above, it lets me keep a feeling of basic decency in an otherwise embarrassing situation.

    ReplyDelete
  3. For sure, you have to pack some toilet paper. Even without being hit by a stomach bug, it may show to be very useful. On my Camino hike I had to deviate to the bushes a couple of times. Not a very pleasant experience (especially not for an aged woman?) but sometimes it just couldn't be avoided. The distance to next toilet simply was too long.

    ReplyDelete
  4. It's not one of the things we like to talk about, but toilet paper turned out to be absolutely necessary. I stayed in good hotels and then had access to my own bathroom, but out along the path (Via de la plata), the conditions were different. Without going into details, I gained good experience in seeking refuge among bushes and thickets, or simply hiding behind a stone fence.

    ReplyDelete
  5. A very sensible list, I will say. It coincides well with my own experiences. When I walked (parts of) the Camino, I was not in need of toilet paper. But the following year, when walking a pilgrim trail between Sweden and Norway with a group of seniors from my local church community, that turned out to be really necessary.

    Luckily our guide had walked the route before, so she reminded us about bringing toilet paper before we left. Many days the route went through very desolated forests and the sole option was to find shelter somewhere among the trees when "nature called". A bit unfamiliar to begin with for most of us, I believe. But I think we all got used to it and it never turned up as a problem in our conversations.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Neither in the original posting, nor in the comments nothing is mentioned about digging a hole when going to do #2. When walking a popular pilgrim trail last summer I spotted quite a lot of toilet paper and even uncovered poop behind bushes and stone fences along the path. A tiny shovel should be a compulsory item on the list of equipment for hikers.

    Certainly, it's something that has to be done, even when hiking, but I think LNT-practices should be more strictly implemented. I also think that some (however, luckily a few) persons should be better to hide when relieving themselves. I must say that I may feel somewhat intimidated when I suddenly discover someone squatting with a bare bum along the trail. For sure a minor issue, but common courtesy requires consideration for others.

    ReplyDelete
  7. In principle I agree with Lene. However, my impression, after over one month along the camino last summer, is that it isn't a huge problem. Most of us try to use facillities along the trail, or if that is not possible, walk well away from others to find shelter to protect ourselves not to be spotted.

    I think everyone in my group (most of us students) had a small shovel, because it was mentioned on the eqipment note that we got from the organizer in advance. Our group walked more or less parallell with another group (mostly seniors). A few times out there, I could not avoid noticing that some of them did as Lene tells, left their waste uncovered, or just covered by some leaves or gras, on the ground.

    I got the chance to take a look at their eqipment note. It did not mention anything about a shovel, it only had a notice on the need to bring some toilet paper for own use. Perhaps young people have better knowledge of the LNT-principle taught to hikers last decades? And that elderly people continue to practice this just as they probaby did in the 1970s and 1980s??

    Information leaflets should bring this up. Many pilgrims are inexperienced hikers and need some information.

    ReplyDelete

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